Patek Philippe 96 Rose Gold Gilt Black Dial w/ Extract from Archives - Serviced w/ 1 year warranty

Now that I finally have this watch in my hands sometimes I think to myself, where do you even start with a writeup for a watch like this? We could start off with the history of the reference 96 in general, but that has been covered extensively, especially considering the past year+. Heck there was an entire book written on just that reference alone by John behalf - which I'm still trying to get my hands on by the way. 

We could perhaps just focus on this example alone and leave it right there. Yes, it's incredibly incredibly rare. The rarity of which I believe simply can't be overstated. Just how many of these were manufactured is really hard to say. I'd imagine just a few. 

Yes, this example is in rose gold and yes the case is very strong. But for me it's all about the dial. Now if you know me and you've been following Steel City Vintage a while now, you know that I am crazy about Patek and vacheron hard enamel dials. This is not that. 

This dial illustrates a gilted technique. A technique that when the light hits it just right that Patek, Philippe & Co signature just pops. It's a marvel to look at and I catch myself staring at it all the time. Playing with the angles to until I can find that sweet spot. 

The process by which Gilt dials where created was labor intensive. Perhaps as labor intensive and difficult as enamel dials. I don't know. I'm not a dial maker. Point being they were hard to do and they don't make them anymore. Finding a Gilt dial Patek reference 96 is infinitely more difficult than hard enamel. 

From how I understand it the process starts with a blank metal plate. Usually brass, copper, gold or silver. That plate is then polished to a high mirror finish at which point the signature is done in special ink. Next, the galvanized base layer, in this case black, is applied to the dial. Finally, the ink of the signature is washed or polished off to essential reveal the base plate below. The end result is a 3D like effect where the signature, and in this case the minute track and subsidiary second dial, is recessed into the dial. 

- Niko Sitaras 

ABOUT THIS WATCH: 

MANUFACTURER: Patek Philippe 

MODEL: Calatrava

REFERENCE: 96

SERIAL: 296898

YEAR: 1941

DIAL: An original black dial, the rarity of which simply can not be overstated. The dial features a gilted technique. Its top most lacquer layer has observable cracking showcasing the gilted base plate underneath. The faced Dauphine hands and lapped hour markers are applied in rose gold. 

CASE: The case of the reference 96 measures 30.5mm in diameter and this specific example is in 18kt Rose gold. The case is very, very strong.  The case perhaps has received only the lightest of polishes in the past. The horizontal brushed finish on the mid case is easily discerned.  The hallmarks are crisp, deep and defined. It presents with rather even, light wear in certain areas. It is completed by its original flats crown. The case back matches the archives. 

MOVEMENT: Patek manually wound 12""120 movement. This is up there amongst my absolute favorite hand wound calibers. The caliber is absolute blessing to look at. We see a myriad of finishing techniques including black polish, Cotes de Geneve, anglage perlage... the works. The serial number on the movement matches the archives. 

BRACELET: We have paired this beautiful watch with our "Ioustiniani" strap - an entirely handmade goat skin strap. The strap was handcrafted by a single artisan in the heart of Italy. Italy has been come to known for their premium leather goods. Rest assured this strap is of the highest quality. 

EXTRACT: Yes. 

ACCESSORIES:  Extract from Archives

BOX/PAPERS: None. 

WARRANTY: Yes. One year dated from 07/2025.  

BANK WIRE PRICE: $30,000 shipped.